The Priests' House That Never Housed Priests
The Presbytere sits on Jackson Square like a dignified bookend, matching the Cabildo on the opposite side of St. Louis Cathedral with an elegance that suggests careful planning. And it was planned — designed in 1791 to mirror the Cabildo and serve as living quarters for the clergy of the adjacent cathedral. There was just one problem: the priests never moved in. The building that was supposed to house the church's leadership ended up serving nearly every other purpose imaginable, from courthouse to commercial space to one of the finest museums in the South.
It's a perfectly New Orleans story. Grand plans meet stubborn reality, and the result is something better than anyone originally intended.
Architecture That Survived Everything
The Presbytere is one of America's best examples of formal colonial Spanish architecture, which is ironic given that it sits in the heart of what everyone calls the French Quarter. The building's history is a reminder that the Quarter's architecture is far more Spanish than French — most of the French colonial structures burned in the great fires of 1788 and 1794, and the Spanish rebuilt the neighborhood in their own style.
Built on the former site of the Capuchin monks' residence, the Presbytere took decades to complete. Construction started in 1791 under Don Andres Almonester y Roxas, the same Spanish philanthropist who financed the rebuilding of St. Louis Cathedral and the Cabildo. But Almonester died in 1798, and the building sat unfinished for years. It wasn't fully completed until the 1830s, when the mansard roof was added to match renovations being done across the square.
The building was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1970, a recognition of its architectural significance and its role in the story of the city.
Museum of Mardi Gras and Hurricanes
Today the Presbytere operates as a museum under the Louisiana State Museum system, and its two permanent exhibitions could hardly be more New Orleans. The upper floors house a comprehensive Mardi Gras exhibition, tracing the history of Carnival from its European roots to the elaborate krewes, costumes, and throws that define the modern celebration. You can see actual queen's gowns, krewe favors dating back a century, and enough Mardi Gras Indian suits to understand why those costumes take a full year to create.
The ground floor tells a very different story: "Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond" is one of the most powerful museum exhibitions in the country, documenting the 2005 catastrophe through artifacts, personal accounts, and multimedia presentations. It's a difficult exhibition — seeing a refrigerator spray-painted with the now-iconic search-and-rescue markings will stop you cold — but it's essential viewing for anyone who wants to understand what this city endured and how it came back.
Frequently Asked Questions About The Presbytere
Why is it called the Presbytere?
A presbytere is a priest's residence. The building was designed to house the clergy of St. Louis Cathedral, though it was never actually used for that purpose.
When was the Presbytere built?
Construction began in 1791. The building wasn't fully completed until the 1830s, when the mansard roof was added.
What can you see at the Presbytere today?
The Presbytere is a Louisiana State Museum with two major permanent exhibitions: one on the history of Mardi Gras and one on Hurricane Katrina and the Gulf Coast's relationship with hurricanes.
Is the Presbytere the same style as the Cabildo?
Yes. The Presbytere was designed to match the Cabildo, creating a symmetrical frame for St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square. Both are outstanding examples of Spanish colonial architecture.
Leave a comment
All comments are moderated before being published.
This site is protected by hCaptcha and the hCaptcha Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.